Breitling Wheels & Waves
Breitling used the backdrop of the Wheels & Waves surf-and-motorcycle festival in Biarritz, France, to launch the two latest editions to its Top Time range. The brand’s “unconventional chronograph”, first released in the 1960s, started as a boldly designed tribute to the freewheeling spirit of its era. Today, the racing chronograph maintains its strong identity while being all about motorbikes, classic cars, and adventure on the open road.
The two new pieces build on the success of Breitling’s past collaborations with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles and take them into high gear with the introduction of the exceptional Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01.
“These co-branded Top Time watches are for those who are as into the mechanics of their watch as they are the mechanics of their motorcycle,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Breitling Caliber 01 is a finely tuned engine, created with all the precision and attention to detail that goes into building the perfect bike.”
BACK, IN BLACK: THE TOP TIME DEUS
Hot on the heels of two sold-out limited editions, Breitling and the Australian custom motorcycle and surf outfitter Deus Ex Machina have joined forces on a third instalment of the Top Time Deus, set to become part of Breitling’s core collection.
The new piece presents a monochromatic departure from its colourful predecessors, with a black dial contrasted by its white triple-register subdials and tachymeter scale. It works on a black racing-themed calfskin leather strap or a mesh metal bracelet. The colour comes in with touches of red on the outer dial and – most vividly – on the centrepiece chrono hand that, like the two previous Top Time Deus editions, is shaped like a lightning bolt.
Once again, the sublime engine behind this watch is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, whose open sapphire-crystal case-back features a red Deus logo at its centre.
FIRE AND ICE: THE TOP TIME TRIUMPH
Breitling first teamed up with the British heritage motorcycle manufacturer Triumph in 2022. The two brands kickstarted their collab by releasing a Breitling Speed Twin Limited Edition bike and a duo of Top Time Triumph watches – one released as 270 numbered pieces for bike owners and the other available to fans.
Both models featured a unique ice-blue dial whose distinctive shade was precisely colour matched to a Triumph Thunderbird 6T from 1951 and a rare, blue-dialled Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 from the 1970s.
This year’s version of the Top Time Triumph, now part of Breitling’s core collection, received a premium upgrade with the addition of the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. The movement’s refined mechanism is now visible through a new open-case back design. The dial features a twin-register display with a speed-measuring tachymeter scale and the Breitling and Triumph logos at 12 and 6 o’clock. Its attention-grabbing ice blue colour pairs with a choice of black racing- themed calfskin leather strap or mesh metal bracelet.
Collectors will pick up on a few throwbacks to vintage Breitling, including a retro logo, mushroom chronograph pushers, and a “Zorro” dial design. The bowtie motif introduced on Top Time in the 1960s (nicknamed after the infamous swashbuckler’s mask) has been subtly integrated using a metal brushing technique only visible under a particular light.
THE CHRONOGRAPH PERFECTED: BREITLING’S MANUFACTURE CALIBER 01
If you’ve been following the Top Time story, you might remember that, back in March, Breitling re-released its Top Time Classic Cars series with the Breitling Caliber 01. Now the Top Time Triumph and Deus are getting the Breitling 01 treatment, too. So what makes this movement so unique? First introduced in 2009, Breitling’s flagship manufacture calibre was designed from the ground up, incorporating over a century of watchmaking expertise. It has become the industry benchmark for chronograph movements in terms of functionality and aesthetics. The Caliber 01 has a column-wheel system, the hallmark of high-end mechanical chronograph movements, and a vertical clutch that provides precise and smooth operation. The movement holds its power for approximately 70 hours (versus 38 to 48 hours for non-manufacture). Its clever modular design allows easy cleaning and servicing by giving access to specific calibre areas without complete disassembly. Breitling is so confident in the quality of its manufacture calibres that it offers them a 5-year warranty (compared to 2 years for non-manufacture). That’s because they’re subject to a meticulous quality control process. It takes ten months of production and 1,000 tests to earn COSC certification for accuracy. On top of that, Breitling puts its manufacture movements through a gruelling 16-year accelerated ageing equivalency that involves rigorous shock testing (approx. 60,000 shocks at 500 g), crown testing (more than 100,000 crown winds), winding of the oscillating weight (3,456,000 weight turns) and chronograph-pusher testing (approx. 5,840 start-stop-reset engagements). Only when a Breitling watch has passed its tests can it leave the Chronometrie? “The integration of the Breitling Caliber 01 into the Top Time range shows the emphasis we’re putting on our in-house craftsmanship and expertise,” says Kern.
“So stay tuned for future developments from the Chronométrie Breitling. Because this is just the beginning.”
BREITLING
Founded in 1884, Breitling is a leading Swiss watchmaker. The innovative company invented the modern clock and pioneered the navigational tool watch. It’s still breaking new ground as a casual, inclusive, and sustainable luxury brand with more than 200 industrial loft-inspired retail locations worldwide. Breitling’s collections centre around air, land, and sea pursuits, all captured in the brand’s unmistakable modern-retro style. The exceptional quality of every watch movement is confirmed by its status as a COSC-certified clock, and the brand remains one of only a handful of independent watchmakers to produce its manufacture calibres. Combining classic watchmaking with the latest innovations, Breitling is a company with history and one ahead of its time.
DEUS EX MACHINA
Deus Ex Machina (god from the machine) roared into Australia’s cultural consciousness in 2006 with some neatly customised motorcycles and a quaint notion that doing something is more fun than just owning something. Deus Ex Machina is a step bigger than a brand: a culture. Our openness and enthusiasm strike a chord with people, wherever they are.
Deus (“day-us”) didn’t set out only to sell hand-built motorcycles and quality clothing for free spirits but to celebrate a culture of creativity. All are welcomed under the Deus roof, where there’s respect for the honesty and enjoyment of the machine. Inclusiveness, authenticity, enthusiasm. It’s a simple, sincere pitch that has winged Deus Ex Machina worldwide. Deus Ex Machina says there’s no “right way” to do individualism; it’s all the same juice.
TRIUMPH
First established in 1902, Triumph Motorcycles celebrated 120 years of motorcycle manufacture in 2022. For more than three decades, Triumph Motorcycles has been based in Hinckley, Leicestershire, and has produced iconic bikes that perfectly blend authentic design, character, charisma, and performance. Through its global dealer network of 701 dealers, in 2021, Triumph sold a record number of 81,541 motorcycles, representing a growth over the prior year of 29%.
